Sunny Spain – Cruising the Mediterranean, part 2

Dec 5-10, 2023

Barcelona

We made five port stops in Spain: Barcelona, Valencia, Cartagena, Malaga, and Cadiz. Our first stop at Barcelona showed us a trendy city brimming with stunning architecture and rich culture. Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, it’s known for Antonio Gaudí and other Art Nouveau architecture. There were many points of interest, but only so much can be experienced during a one day visit. While that is a potential downside of cruising, the upside is that cruisers have an opportunity to take in the atmosphere of each stop and determine if it’s a place they would like to revisit and spend more time in the future.

We joined two excursions here, one to see a colossal masterpiece and the other to drive up to a breathtaking rocky mountain range where a Benedictine monastery mountain retreat is situated:

Sunrise in Barcelona as viewed from the ship with the Basilica de Sagrada Familia right of center

The basilica of La Sagrada Familia is a famous work by Gaudí which has a unique style and is an important part of the city’s identity. Most people love it because it’s unique, but we thought it looked a bit “gaudy” on the outside. Construction began 142 years ago and is set to be completed in 2026 – we’ll see if that happens 😉

The interior may be gorgeous, but we had no time to wait in line for tickets to enter. I had to settle for a picture of the world’s tallest cathedral from a block away:

This is Antonio Gaudi’s unachieved cathedral, the most visited monument of Barcelona

An interesting fact we learned is that the famous and respected architect was hit by a tram and later died. He wasn’t recognized for a couple of days because he had dressed poorly and people thought he was a beggar. Very sad.

After that Gaudi masterpiece we visited another unique public park that he designed called Park Guell. It is considered a perfect example of his integration of nature and architecture. The colorful mosaics, known as “trencadís” in Catalan, are elaborate and ostentatious:

Montserrat is a multi-peaked mountain range in Catalonia, Spain. Situated at the top of the highest one is the monastery Santa Maria de Montserrat. Inside is a statue of the Virgin of Montserrat, which is one of the few black madonnas in Europe. It is Catalonia’s most important religious retreat and offers fantastic views. There are also several hiking trails in the area that we wished time had allowed us to follow for more views of the range:

We arrived fairly early at the top of the mountain to catch the sunrise and spectacular views
Benedictine Monastery Santa Maria de Montserrat hosts the Virgin of Montserrat sanctuary
The Santa Cova Chapel is about a one-hour hike along the side of the mountain
We rode the Sant Joan Funicular which is 1,633′ long with a maximum gradient rise of 65.2%. What a ride!
Selfie inside the Sant Joan Funicular, an easy alternative to hiking a trail…
…and this is the view from the top of the funicular looking down at the monastery

Lastly, our excursion took us to the top of a hill at the National Art Museum of Catalonia to enjoy stunning views of Barcelona below:

Panorama of the Barcelona skyline as viewed from the hill at the National Art Museum of Catalonia

Valencia

We docked bright and early at Valencia’s harbor

The tour we wanted to take at the City of Arts and Sciences was full, so we only saw it from the outside during a sightseeing stop. It looked like a futuristic complex, with 6 imposing buildings towering over the area and dubbed the modern-day Valencia:

A highlight of our Valencia visit was the Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady Saint Mary of Valencia. It is known for holding one of the most important pieces of art from the first Spanish renaissance, and the keeper of the Holy Grail. We were told Valencia is a paradise for history buffs which is steeped in 2,000 years of history and culture:

Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady Saint Mary
Renaissance frescoes (musician angels) done in the 17th century, but only discovered in 2004 when the Baroque vault that covered them was removed during a renovation
Documentation and archaeological studies lead the Valencia Cathedral to believe that the Holy Grail of Valencia is the one that was used by Jesus at the last supper. It is a mystery and a myth, but they believe this is The One!

The Central Market in Valencia is the largest in Europe, with a profusion of vendors selling fresh produce, meats and all things Mediterranean. It’s huge and filled with amazing colors and aromas. It was also packed shoulder-to-shoulder with locals and tourists – we walked through for a few minutes and then headed for the exit:

We continued our walk through the city:

That strip in the middle of the building is the narrowest apartment in Europe. Not our style, we don’t want stairs in our home

Cartagena

Port of Cartagena

There is plenty of well-preserved Roman history in Spain, particularly in the town of  Cartagena. Our excursion took us to the Roman Theater, which is believed to have been built between 5 and 1 BC:

Dedicatory inscriptions to Gaius and Lucius Caesar, indicating that the theater was built between 5 and 1 BC

Several layers of construction piled on top of each other throughout the centuries had buried the theater until its recent discovery in 1988. Archaeological excavation and restoration was completed in 2003:

The theater was carved into solid rock in the central area and held 6,000 spectators during its heyday
During a walk we tried and enjoyed a Cafe Asiatico, a local drink consisting of coffee, condensed milk, evaporated milk, cognac and a local spirit containing an herbal vanilla flavor called Liquor 43. It’s different but we thought pretty good!

Malaga

Málaga is well-known for being where the artist and sculptor Pablo Picasso was born and grew up. We learned about this when our tour passed by his home and the area where he spent his childhood. If you’re a fan of Picasso, visiting Málaga will help you understand more about his life and work with two museums dedicated to him.

At the top of a hill we had panoramic views of the city with its many high rise buildings and beaches along the stretch of the Andalusian coastline. At the heart of the city is the La Malagueta Bullring, which to this day continues to host bullfights:

Malaga skyline
La Malagueta Bullring opened in 1876 as a world-class bullring, seating over 9,000 spectators
Port of Malaga with our beautiful cruise ship Viking Neptune at rest
Unlike the rest of the structure, the facade of the Cathedral of Málaga is in the Baroque style. Locals nicknamed it “The One-Armed Woman,” because its second tower (on the right) was never completed due to lack of funding
Our jaws dropped at the sight of this over-the-top Christmas light display
Malaga is also known for its high rise hotels and resorts jutting from yellow-sand beaches

As we left Malaga that evening, we were informed that we’d be crossing the Strait of Gibraltar by midnight. The Strait of Gibraltar connects the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediterranean Sea and separates Spain on the European continent from Morocco on the African continent.

The Rock of Gibraltar is the southernmost point in Europe. I captured the big rock the best I could at midnight 🙂

Cadiz

Approaching Port of Cadiz at sunrise

Our final port stop in Spain was the city of Cadiz, not only the oldest city in Spain, but in all of western Europe. Over 120 watchtowers dominate its skyline, the legacy of a former life as a busy trading port. Our tour took us through the heart of the city with its whitewashed Casco Antiguo (old town) and then a maze of narrow streets past plazas, baroque churches and elegant homes of 18th-century merchants:

We then headed straight for the most famous of the city’s monuments, the grandiose Cadiz Cathedral. It’s a combination of 18th century baroque and neoclassical styles, and once inside we viewed a gold-domed cathedral with highlights including vaults of the high altar and choir stalls:

When our tour guide offered us a climb to the top of the bell tower for dramatic views of the city we immediately accepted, but not before we visited the crypts beneath the cathedral:

The crypt is a circular space covered by flat vaulting with openings into other small areas

We climbed up to the bell tower:

Remember the James Bond movie “Die Another Day”? Out there is the beach that Halle Barry emerged onto
Whitewashed old town and the hundreds of watchtowers traditionally used for spotting ships
From this elevated vantage point we admired the intricate details of the cathedral’s bell towers and clock tower that dominate the Cadiz skyline

Given the time and our schedule, we had a great visit in Spain. It was cool, but sunny in all the cities we visited.

What’s significant for me is that growing up and learning from my country’s history is that the Philippines was discovered and claimed in the name of Spain in March 1521 by Magellan, a Portuguese explorer sailing for Spain. He named our islands, Philippines, after King Philip II of Spain. The Philippines was subsequently under Spain for over 300 years before we were liberated. The enduring legacy that Spain left was the introduction of the Catholic faith. This is proven by the presence of old Spanish churches throughout the country, including the church in my hometown in Moalboal, Cebu, Philippines.

Our church was built in 1852, now the oldest landmark in town

Adios, España !


Next up: Portugal


11 thoughts on “Sunny Spain – Cruising the Mediterranean, part 2

  1. Just like you can use the ports of call to determine if you’d like to return to a place to explore more in the future, I can use your blogs posts the same way. I must admit that Spain isn’t going to make the list, or at least, a tour of its cities won’t. From the gaudy Gaudi to the gross pooping dude to the [in my opinion] highly overrated Picasso all amidst throngs of people — yikes! My shins are splinting just looking at all those stone streets.

    You getting to experience a significant part of your homeland’s history, though, must’ve been very moving for you, and I’m glad you got to have that. The gorgeous mountain scenery, the great weather, and the food/drink were all winners, too!

  2. Wow, Wow, Wow!!!  What an Adventure!  Another, magnificent photo and written description of your Fabulous Journey.  Your photos are fantastic and the commentary is spot on.  What a guide for someone wanting to get a first hand view prior to doing such a trip.  We are so happy the trip went so well for the two of you!!!  Thank you for sharing your memories! Dianne & Phil

  3. I’m loving my travels through Europe through your eyes! We’re planning a trip to Europe next year, and your pictures and descriptions are getting me very excited. Regarding your coffee drink…we were introduced to Liquor 43 last year in Canada. We stayed at a Harvest Host owned by Swiss immigrants who now live in Alberta. They invited us to happy hour and Liquor 43 was one of the yummy drinks they introduced us to. I never thought to put it in coffee! But I’ll try it now! Have fun out there!

  4. I’ve only spent time in the north of Spain, in small villages in the Pyrenees. It’s interesting to visit the larger, more well-known cities through your eyes and your beautiful photos. I agree that Gaudi’s architectural masterpieces are “gaudy,” LOL.

    I’d have a hard time visiting places with only one day to spend there, because I get really sidetracked and want to just wander. But you’re right that a cruise is the perfect way to figure out if you’re intrigued enough to return. So…have any of the cities made your must-return-to list?

  5. I’ve never been to Spain but it is on my bucket list. Thanks to your wonderful images and descriptions now I want to go more than ever. I really enjoyed reading about the history.

  6. Busy, busy, busy…..so much to see and so little time. Thanks for giving us a quick overview of the spots you chose in Spain.  While Gaudi’s work is often called gaudy, I think I enjoy taking time to look at all the tiny details he includes – much like the interior photo of Valencia’s Basilica of the Assumption of…….

    Your cafe asiatico looked really intriguing…was it good? I can’t believe the steep incline of the funicular!  You two looked a little trepidatious in your selfie…..

    Your hometown church is sweet….it is still in operation?

  7. Ooof, that funicular made me nervous from here. Is there a bar at the top? If not, there should be. Yikes.

    Valencia and Malaga are still high on our must visit list, so thanks for the great information. You’ve piqued my interest in Cadiz too. What a beautiful city! Too bad about that market in Valencia. I’d like to check it out myself, but like so many things, once the word gets out, it becomes super crowded which is no fun for anyone.

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