July 16-19
Greenland is green – or is it? more on that later.
If you are just joining us, check the first segment of where this adventure began here.
Cruising the Labrador Sea from Northeastern Canada to Greenland was relatively smooth. However, a storm was brewing southwest of Greenland where we were scheduled to dock or anchor. Since cruising is subject to weather conditions just like flying, our captain adapted by deviating from the planned route and navigating to avoid the brunt of the storm. It took almost 48 hours to cross the Labrador Sea, and a day at sea is always welcome, in our opinion.
While at sea and in preparation for our stops in the Arctic, all passengers attended a mandatory briefing to understand the guidelines set by the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO). Like Antarctica, the Arctic is one of the world’s most untouched natural areas, and biosecurity guidelines must be followed. Our outer gear (gloves, beanies, parkas and waterproof pants) were inspected and cleaned to reduce the risk of introducing non-native species during our visit:
To fill our sea day we worked out at the gym, then enjoyed a cooking demo by the ship’s executive chef and a galley tour also led by him. Finally, we relaxed at The Hide (a nice, quiet ocean-level hangout in the bow of the ship). Now you know why we don’t mind days at sea!
as usual
About Greenland
When you think of Greenland, lush forest and greenery may come to mind because, well, it is named Greenland. On the contrary it’s almost all white and icy as shown in this picture. It is the largest island on earth, covered 80% by a sheet of ice second only to Antartica in size.
It actually got its name from Erik The Red, an Icelandic murderer who was exiled to the island. He called it “Greenland” in hopes that the name would attract settlers.
We learned from one of the lectures that Greenland actually was green some 2.5 million years ago. A new study reveals that ancient dirt was cryogenically frozen for millions of years beneath ice up to 2 miles thick.
You’ll soon see what we discovered while visiting several of the island’s settlements, showing how the landscape is balanced by the colorful homes of the resident Greenlanders!
With Greenland in the news lately, there was a discussion/presentation at the ship’s Aula auditorium about the USA’s interest in acquiring the country. It was insightful and very informative to say the least. Afterward we were advised out of respect and the sensitive issue to not engage Greenlanders about their views on the matter during our visit.
Qeqertarsuatsiaat
Our first port stop was at Qeqertarsuatsiaat (try pronouncing that!), a settlement on the western coast. It is one of Greenland’s oldest settlements, with a population of about 170 people. The fishing industry is dwindling here, and nearby ruby and sapphire mining operations were paused in 2023 due to bankruptcy.
After disembarking our Zodiac, a short walk through the village took us past the harbor and up to the historic church area. The colorful structures gave us a feel of small town life in a remote area. It was so quiet that it seemed to me the people just kept to themselves in their homes. We hiked up a ridge to get expansive views of the fjord and mountains behind the town below:
There are no roads or railway systems connecting settlements to one another. All travel between towns is done by plane, boat, helicopter, snowmobile or dogsled.
While the land seemed mostly empty except for snow and glaciers, we found some Arctic flowers blooming. These are a few common Arctic flowers that caught my eye, even though they grow low to the ground:
Back at the ship there was a BBQ event on Deck 6. Since we did not feel like eating outside in the cold, we grabbed a plate of goodies and headed back inside to the World Cafe and comfort:
QOORNOQ ISLAND
Our next visit was to Qoornoq, an abandoned settlement with another name I can’t pronounce. Once a busy cod fishing village, it was officially abandoned in 1972 as part of the G60 program to move residents of small settlements into larger population centers. However, each summer it becomes a vibrant getaway as descendants of the original residents return to open their colorful cottages which we were now able to explore:
As you can see it was foggy, drizzling and cold when we arrived. That called for layering and full gear for our “wet” landing. That means we had to get out of the Zodiacs into shallow water instead of onto a dock or dry land. I know it sounds crazy, but what a great adventure in a fantastic place!
It cleared a bit and we were able to see evidence of the former large cod processing plant and facilities for producing dried fish, including several derelict railways:
Click the short clip below for the last few seconds of an iceberg flipping. An iceberg turns over or flips—a process known as capsizing—due to an imbalance in its weight distribution. It’s usually caused by uneven underwater melting or calving (chunks of ice breaking off). When we heard it everyone ran to shore to watch:
Here’s a quick short clip of our zodiac ride through icebergs.
Back on the ship, the day’s special offering was a Seafood Extravaganza with a lobster tower on display:
It was scenic sailing as we left the settlement and moved on. Such beautiful and pristine scenery!
Qooqqut
Our third stop was a small settlement starting with the letter Q, as you can see many here do. It is located about 26 miles from Nuuk, Greenland’s capital and situated deep within Nuuk Fjord. It’s a remote valley accessible only by boat. Once the site of an experimental sheep farm, it is now a popular summer retreat known for its pristine mountain wilderness, surrounding mountains and mirror-like waters:
There are no permanent residents here, only seasonal summer tourism. And look, it’s lush and GREEN!
We were excited to visit this place until we were immediately attacked by millions of flies and bugs while de-boarding. Fortunately we came prepared with head nets from our prior Alaska travels, or it would have been an almost impossible visit. Don’t we look sassy with our add-on accessories?
We took a short hike around Qooqqut, where the landscape shifted between green meadows, small streams and viewpoints offering sweeping panoramas of the fjord. On the trail we saw a rare sight for this latitude – small trees and shrubs that give the place a surprisingly lush character:
In this clip I asked my Honeybunch to smile while the pesky bugs were buzzing around his face…
As our Zodiac returned to the ship, we were stopped halfway across to enjoy the view and a refreshing hot drink served from another Zodiac by the restaurant and general managers. Another surprise and a classic Viking touch!
Although it looks super-cold in many of these photos, the reality is that it was never colder than the 30’s during our trip and usually warmer. The provided outerwear was overkill most of the time, designed to provide for serious storm conditions that we never encountered. And we are reminded daily that it’s over 100º at home right now in Arizona, so let’s enjoy!
From our first three visits to Greenland’s settlements, I can say that there is definitely “some” green in Greenland. These southern coastal areas are actually starting to turn green now as the ice melts from a warming climate. But 80% of Greenland is smothered by a massive, permanent ice sheet. And if our initial visits are any indication, I can say that our Greenlandic experience is very satisfying so far. The stunning landscapes, breathtaking scenery and abandoned or inhabited settlements have brought new adventures that are steeped in rich history.
And that was just the beginning – there’s much more to see and be awed of!
Next Up: Settlements and Scenery : Discovering more of Greenland’s hidden gems
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