July 5 – 14
It’s summer, and we wanted to escape from the heat in Wickenburg, Arizona to find some cooler temps up north. When we left on July 5, the temperature was already in the triple digits, so it was time to go have some fun. Yay, we are traveling again!
Our adventures began in Toronto, Canada and continued along the St. Lawrence Seaway, then onward to Greenland. Our third and final leg was to the Northwest Passage in the Canadian High Arctic. This journey was aboard an expedition-style ship, the Viking Polaris. It’s the sister ship of Octantis that we sailed aboard in Antarctica. Since all Viking ships in each of their classes (Ocean, Expedition and River) are built almost identically, it’s like coming home when we embark as we know where everything will be and how it will work.
I will be posting about this trip in four segments: “Cruising the St. Lawrence River and Seaway in Canada”, “Visiting Greenland 1 and 2” and finally “Exploring the Northwest Passage”.
Below was our full itinerary:
About Viking Polaris
Viking’s expedition ships Octantis and Polaris are identical state-of-the-art Polar Class ships. They are smaller than Viking’s ocean ships, but still quite large at 665′ long. They can accommodate 378 guests and a crew of 256. They’re designed for remote destinations like the Arctic and Antarctica and carry a submarine, Special Operations Boats, Zodiacs and kayaks in their huge hangers. In my Antarctica post I detailed the few added features found only on expedition ships. We both like the understated elegance and modern Scandinavian design – here are a few of the areas we enjoy on them:
The St. Lawrence Seaway and River
The Great Lakes and St. Lawrence River are important for industry and agriculture in the U.S. and Canada, serving as key routes for trade. This is mainly because of the St. Lawrence Seaway, a massive American-Canadian navigational project which connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Great Lakes. Spanning 2,340 miles, this waterway links many ports and helps transport goods over long distances, supporting economies on both sides of the border. On the other hand the St. Lawrence River is a natural, 740-mile-long body of water flowing from Lake Ontario to the Atlantic Ocean.
The St. Lawrence Seaway extends westward to Duluth, Minnesota, where Viking Polaris started her journey. We joined the ship in Toronto for an amazing cruise from Lake Ontario all the way to the Atlantic Ocean.
St. Lawrence Seaway is like a big “water staircase” that raises and lowers ships many feet via locks, and while cruising the Montreal-Lake Ontario section we passed through seven locks, which were very tight. We were eastbound toward the Atlantic Ocean and dropped a combined total of about 226-246′ from the higher elevation of the Great Lakes to sea level:
I took two short clips as we passed through the locks. Here is one of a gate opening…
…and this one with a lock and lift bridge was at St. Lambert lock:
Port stops along St. Lawrence River
Trois-Rivieres, Quebec
During our RV full-timing years we skipped visiting Quebec for an arbitrary reason, and we regretted it. Now we can finally say we’ve visited all of the major Canadian provinces. Our first port stop after passing the last lock was Trois-Rivieres, or Three Rivers, known as the cultural center of Quebec’s Maurice region. It was established in 1634:
Here we visited the oldest church in Canada – Our Lady of the Cape Shrine – which is also Canada’s National Shrine to Our Blessed Mother:
Quebec City, Quebec
Quebec City is often considered “The most French city in New France”. It is the only remaining walled city in North America besides Mexico, and was fortified in the 17th century shortly after it was founded in 1608:
We joined a short walking tour at its Old Town (a UNESCO World Heritage site) which retains much of its colonial-era charm. Wandering through Quartier Petit Champlain felt very European, with cobblestones and colorful shops. Our guide was so knowledgeable that we thought he was a local but later learned he is an American from Minnesota and adopted Quebec City as his hometown.
There are several murals in the city and we were led to the most famous of them. La Fresque des Québécois is a stunning mural at the bottom of Côte de la Montagne that shows the province’s history and culture. This huge outdoor fresco is over 400′ long and 40′ high. It depicts Québec’s past and present, highlighting important moments, influential people, and key events that have shaped the city:
A short ride later we visited the majestic Montmorency Falls. Roaring over the cliff and falling 272′ into the St. Lawrence River, it’s 30′ taller than Niagara Falls:
Tadoussac, Quebec
Tadoussac is a small village in the Côte-Nord, located where the St. Lawrence River meets the Saguenay Fjord. It is known for its beautiful fjord landscape and is home to many whale species that visit Tadoussac Bay in the summer, leading to the availability of popular whale-watching tours:
Sure enough, at breakfast several Minke whales were frolicking in the waters. No need for us to go whale watching now, they came and welcomed to us 🙂
Our excursion was at St. Lawrence Marine Park where we saw a lone Ringed Seal sleeping. We waited a while to catch any whales breeching but that didn’t happen. What excited me instead was I found a pair of the iconic red chairs of Canada. In 2016 I began encountering and tracking them while visiting Western Canada national parks. These sets of red Adirondack chairs are placed in peaceful, scenic, and breathtaking locations across Canada’s national parks and historic sites:
Just up the coast we visited The Dunes, where we took in the view from two coastal terraces consisting of sand sculpted by nature. There was a trail with many steps down to the water, but time did not permit it. We stood at the top to enjoy a sweeping view over the surrounding landscape. Unlike traditional wind-blown desert dunes, these giant sandy slopes are actually ancient marine terraces shaped nearly 10,000 years ago by glacial meltwater and the retreat of the prehistoric Goldthwait Sea:
As we departed this port the Captain sailed slowly for some whale watching. The expedition team made it fun by handing out warm turquoise drinks as we gathered at the Bow in search of whales. We were moderately successful – not a whole bunch showed up 🙂
Havre-Saint Pierre, Quebec
Havre-Saint-Pierre is located on the northern shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, nestled among stunning landscapes of the Canadian Shield. It’s the jumping off point to Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve, home to Canada’s largest concentration of erosion monoliths:
We took a guided walk with a Parks Canada heritage interpreter, who shared insights as we explored the nearly 500 million years of unique geological history. We followed a trail lined with limestone cliffs and rock formations sculpted into remarkable shapes by wind and waves over centuries:
Boone Bay (Woody Point) Newfoundland and Labrador
Bonne Bay is a deep glacially carved fjord on the western coast of Newfoundland, which cuts inland from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Woody Point is a town known for its abundance of natural beauty, including Bonne Bay, Newfoundland’s only fjord, the Tablelands and Gros Morne National Park, another UNESCO World Heritage site:
We experienced several geological wonders and natural beauty from the water during our ride in a Special Operations Boat (SOB), which is an option for fast-paced, agile coastal narrated tours. An SOB is a 12-seat, military-grade, ice-strengthened aluminum watercraft, one of the many unique craft that Viking’s expedition ships carry for guest enjoyment. They are super fast and fun, and we rode in them several times during the trip.
Back aboard the ship we had cocktails before dinner, and I enjoyed a special dish from the Filipino Chef. Since half of the crew were Filipino I made a lot of friends!
Red Bay, Newfoundland and Labrador
Red Bay is a small fishing village that sits on a natural harbor on the southern coast of Labrador. Named for the red granite cliffs that dominate the region, the area was a significant Basque whaling station during the 16th and early 17th centuries:
We opted for a Zodiac cruise here instead of setting foot in the village. Our naturalist took us closer to the rugged coastline to admire the dramatic Labradorian landscape, its red cliffs and boreal forest:
Back on the ship we savored a fresh lobster roll for lunch, we hadn’t had one of these in a long time!
Battle Harbour, Newfoundland and Labrador
Our final stop in Northeastern Canada was at Battle Harbor, a restored 19th-century fishing village on a small island in the Labrador Sea. Regarded by generations as the unofficial capital of Labrador, it was once the salt fish capital of the world:
Today, the island’s rugged landscape offers a striking backdrop to the well-preserved heritage structures that dot the restored village. It serves as a living museum preserved as a National Historic District:
We almost missed this excursion because of high winds. But we braved it and were instructed to wear our full gear due to splashing of water as we cruised to the island. And yes we did get wet…
We had a short guided tour led by fifth-generation descendants who shared first-hand accounts of traditional salt-curing and historical outpost life. After that we were on our own to explore:
As we wandered further with the wind behind us we admired the rugged beauty and viewed dramatic ocean vistas and rock formations:
This is one of the few National Historic Districts where you can spend the night but it is strictly seasonal, generally from early June through mid-September. A place with no paved roads, no cars and no power lines. Hmm, just a little too remote for us.
Cruising the St. Lawrence River from Toronto to Newfoundland and Labrador was an incredible experience. As we traveled along the St. Lawrence River, the view changed from Toronto’s urban skyline to peaceful coastal towns with charming buildings, dramatic cliffs, fjords, forests, and colorful rocks. This part of Canada is rarely highlighted on social media, yet it offers a stunning mix of landscapes, cultural heritage and some hidden gems. The area is rich in history, with small villages showcasing maritime traditions and stories of explorers. Although we didn’t see lots of whales, we did spot a seal sunbathing and seabirds above. That’s OK, we still had a long way to go.
And with that we will cross the Labrador Sea to reach our next exciting destination, Greenland!
Next Up: Greenland is not green
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