After gazing into the night sky and peering through telescopes while star-partying, it was time to come back to earth and move on. Our home base at Davis Mountains State Park was nestled in the foothills of the beautiful Davis Mountains, with the historic town of Fort Davis only 4 miles away. The total absence of internet and phone connectivity, along with many days of nice weather at the campground, made outdoor exploration the perfect pastime while we were here.
Davis Mountains is a mountain range that rose from the Chihuahuan Desert floor, isolating it to form a “sky island.” Rising above 5,000 feet to cooler and moister climates, the mountains provide area residents and visitors a retreat during the hot Texas summers. We’re glad that Laurel (Raven and Chicadee) and DK (My Five Fs) had scouted this place out, allowing us to enjoy a wonderful time here.
As we took hikes or drove around the mountains and the town of Fort Davis, evidence of intense volcanic activity millions of years ago could be seen. Park brochures indicated the mountains we see now consist of layer upon layer of ash (hardened lava). Massive eruptions built up shield volcanoes composed of rhyolite lava flows and ash-flow tuffs. The weathered formations show a peculiar feature, more common in basaltic lava flows, called columnar jointing. It has created “palisades” characterizing such landmarks as Sleeping Lion Mountain (the backdrop to the town of Fort Davis) and the walls of Limpia Canyon.
Hiking at the State Park
The excellent weather allowed us to follow every hiking trail in the state park; Skyline Trail, CCC Trail, Montezuma Trail and the Indian Lodge Trail. We enjoyed a variety of vantage points during every trek. The canyon walls, composed of unmistakeable igneous rock, were evident everywhere as we followed the ridge on Skyline Trail.
Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute
This institute sits on 507 acres of semi-desert grasslands, surrounded by igneous rock outcrops with a riparian canyon and spectacular views. I arrived during their membership meeting and got a free pass to explore the botanical gardens. Wanting to get my “money’s worth”, I also followed their hiking trails and viewed samples of historic artifacts and ore displays which highlighted 19th century mining in this area.
But my favorite activity here was hiking up to Clayton’s Overlook, where I spent time reading 10 plaques about the surrounding dynamic landscape – its geology , culture and history. One explained in detail the characteristics of the Davis Mountains. Despite their stunning beauty, they are a hard land filled with wildlife and people that have adapted to these highlands located in the heart of the Trans-Pecos part of Texas.
The town of Fort Davis
Fort Davis is known as the highest town in Texas – located at a mere 5,050 ft. of elevation. Established in 1854 on the San Antonio-El Paso Road through west Texas, the town, the fort and the surrounding mountains were named after Jefferson Davis, who was the Secretary of War at the time.
It was in town at the Jeff Davis County Library that I checked email and my all-important FB account. This historic adobe building was a store during the 1870’s, changing hands several times. By 1891 it had grown to serve as the town’s general store, temporary jail, telephone exchange and post office. It became a library in 1999.
Going inside and comparing the original and current pictures, nothing much has changed, especially the ceilings and floors.
Checking out the town of Marfa
On one morning we drove to the nearby small town of Marfa. This quirky old West Texas cowtown has turned into a hip cultural mecca. The first thing we noticed upon our arrival was the most prominent building in town, the historic Presidio County Courthouse. Built in 1886, it is designed of brick and stone quarried right here in Marfa.
We went inside this beautiful building, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The original pecan wood throughout the interior was gorgeous and had really withstood the test of time.
On our way back home, we saw what we at first thought were white-tailed deer, but after stopping for a closer look we discovered they were Pronghorns, the first we had ever seen.
The Pronghorn Antelope is not really an antelope, but rather the sole descendent of an ancient deer-like animal. It’s the second-fastest animal on land (Cheetah being the fastest), able to achieve and maintain speeds of 53 miles per hour for up to 1.5 miles.
Can’t forget the birds!
This particular state park made it very clear that they didn’t want bird feeders in campsites. So to lure my feathered friends to our site, I “accidentally” dropped some birdseed on nearby boulders – shhh, please don’t report me, I can’t help myself! In just a few hours the “word” had spread, and one by one they came for a free lunch at site #11.
We had been in Texas for the past five long months, our longest winter in a single state, and I must say we were glad to finally be moving on!
If we should ever decide to visit Texas, these rocky, mountainous, hiking areas are where we will head! Thanks for making the area so enticing:) I love all the beautiful rocks!
Boy, did you have a great wildlife experience! Sheep are always a bonus, but that javelina is so…ugly! What a huge flat head! This is one we have only seen in the Desert Museum in Tucson, never in person. That first pronghorn is very different looking…so fluffy.
Love the final photo of Steve:)
At first I read “Lumpia” and got all excited but then realized it was ‘Limpia’ 😉 I know you’re rubbing it in by posting the Javi photo… you win! And my fave – the antelope aka Pronghorn. Very common throughout NM and the plains of CO. I never tire of seeing them. Thanks for a fabulous tour of TX 🙂
Gorgeous wildlife photography! I envy your ability to hike to explore your destinations! I have MS so have to do my exploring on wheels as we RV… I think you got your money’s worth out of Texas! Safe travels, Robin
Hope you also ducked into the Hotel Limpia while you were at the library. It is worth walking through their lobby and porch area for a little sense of says hone by, too. This makes me ready to go back, even after being there over Christmas and in late February. Sigh. I love this place so much. Glad you were able to visit, and you are the winner in the hiking category! That Indian Lodge trail is a challenge,for sure. Oh, hope you saw the Indian Lodge, too. Our kids loved their stay there. Thanks again for another great write up!
Great animal shots! SOme day I hope to get a good opportunity to see bighorns up close, not just fleetingly in the distance.
Pronghorns are gorgeous animals aren’t they! SO glad you got to see them.
I am glad we went to TX, but I was also ready to leave after our two months. Though we did not see the Gulf portion and all the wonderful birds you got to see this winter.
Looks like you two were on a safari not a hike. Awesome!
So happy you enjoyed your time at Davis Mountains SP. We love that park and the trails. And you saw bighorn!! Did you hike to Ft. Davis from the park? The fort was really interesting. Great wildlife photos (bighorn, antelope, and birdies) and I love the photo of Steve at sunset in the CCC shelter.
What a fabulous first picture of that campground nestled there in the mountains. Rocks are so interesting. So many different kinds and origins. The west, so different from the east. Better the up hill climbing at the beginning than the end at least for me. That picture of you resting looks like it was pretty straight up hill though. Really nice picture of Steve among the grasses. This is a park David would love where he actually can do ALL the trails. Those are wonderful bird pictures. What a variety you got from your little bit of feed. Love your closing shot. I had no idea you had been in Texas nearly half a year. Can’t wait to see where you go next.
You have made Texas a must visit state… I’ve really enjoyed the vist there with you
Like you we love travelling. Although I am not game to fly or go by boat so limited to Australia. Love your beautiful pictures, especially the birds.
The wildlife is awesome. We have yet to see a Big Horned Sheep! But the birds are the best! Especially the Acorn Woodpecker. Quite photogenic. Love the hikes!
Looks like there is lots more to do at Davis Mountain that we had even learned. We toured the fort and did a bit of hiking but a reported snowstorm and ice headed our way sent us pulling up our jacks early and heading out. Great photos!
Wow… YOU have captured the most amazing wildlife on your blog. I am jealous that you got to see a Big Horn! The lava flow formations are fabulous. Safe travels to you as you go off to New Mexico.
Oh how I love that area! Sadly our stay at that park was cut short by fire evacuation. We’ve been meaning to go back ever since. Lots of great tips here!
That scrub Jay is a pretty boy. He deserves a better name!
Appreciate you scouting the area out for us … current plans are for us to do a bit of exploring at Big Bend and Davis mountains with friends next year. Nice bird shot (and no, we won’t report you ;-))
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