Betsy’s “Ferry Tale” – Saint John, NB
We left the USA on a bright sunny morning and crossed the Canada border once again. This is Betsy’s eighth crossing into Canada. Because we were weaving in and out of Canada a lot while on our Alaskan adventure, we have taken to counting our border crossings. Now we’re taking Betsy into Canada on the other side of the country. The officer at the border asked us the usual questions, and after giving him the right answers we were on our way!
A few kilometers later, we were welcomed to the province of New Brunswick, where we began to teach our brains – think kilometers, meters, liters, celsius, pricey diesel and a little French – no problem!
We traveled a few scenic miles to our destination, Hardings Point Campground, where Betsy would endure a short ferry ride to get to the park. Unlike riding on the Alaska Marine Highway ferry, this ferry ride is cable driven, no charge, and only took five minutes.
We were assigned a spot on top of a hill with a minimal view of the river. To get internet access we had to walk down to the office. Check Steve’s park review here.
Obviously, we were excited to be in Canada again and started to plan things to do. We received lots of recommendations and tips from our blogger friends and we wanted to experience as much as possible while here. We left early morning the following day to catch the low tide at the Reversing Falls at Saint John. That required another ferry ride to cross the channel, since our campground was located at the tip of the Kingston Peninsula. But it was easy with the car.
Our first stop was to be at the foot of the Saint John river, from which we could get a front-row seat to observe the reversing direction of the river. They call this phenomenon the “reversing rapids”, when the world’s highest tides push in, rushing up and over the river. They collide and the river actually reverses flow in the face of the unstoppable natural power. We were advised that the reversal is best viewed during two stages of one tide cycle – near low tide and near high tide – every 6 hours or so.
It was low tide when we got there, and we saw the river flow on its normal course – freely out to the bay. The bay tides continue to fall below the level of the river until the low tide is complete. At this point the tidal waters are 14 ½ feet lower than the river.
We didn’t want to hang around for several hours waiting for high tide, so we headed out and our first stop was at the Wolastoq Park, which is just across the street. It has one of the best views of the Reversing Rapids, the inner harbour and the city skyline of Saint John. As we strolled along the walking paths, we learned about the history of the city and saw the many statues of some of the historical Saint John figures that have helped shape the city.
After our stroll we headed downtown, to where the cruisers from a Carnival Cruise ship were in town.
Near high tide, we went back to the Reversing Falls and observed that the flow of the river had reversed. The push of the bay’s tides continued to high tide, causing the water to create rapids going upstream and pushing the 450-mile long St John River backwards for a period of several hours. Cool!
After running around all day we headed home, taking the ferry again…
Then the tired driver grabbed his favorite book…
… while I enjoyed a fiery sunset by the river!