Exploring beyond Niagara Falls – what a great place!

Without a doubt, the three beauties – American Falls, Bridal Veil Falls and Horsehoe Falls – are the main attraction on both the New York and Ontario, Canada sides of Niagara Falls. But there are many other things to do and places to see beyond the falls.  We received lots of ideas from fellow bloggers Erin of Two to Travel’s Phaeton Journeys, Gay of Good-times Rolling and Don and Lisa, our friends from Ohio.  So we tried to check those out, and we discovered other fun things to do along the way.

A short 15-minute drive from our campground on Grand Island (click here if interested in Steve’s review of the KOA campground) took us to Old Fort Niagara, NY.  Our next door neighbor at the campground suggested this worthwhile stop, and it was an interesting one that history buffs will not want to miss.  This was a strategic site on the great lakes which played a critical role in the French & Indian War, the American Revolution and the War of 1812.  It is preserved as it stood in the 1700’s when France and Britain controlled Niagara, and then it was restored between 1926 and 1934.  The three flags – French, British and U.S. – commemorate  the three nations that held Fort Niagara.

French Castle
The french castle in the background is the oldest building in North America’s lake region.

The buildings of Old Fort Niagara represent several different periods of history.  Large plaques representing the arms of France and Great Britain indicate the nation responsible for each building’s construction.

At the museum was displayed the biggest flag we have seen, encased in its own climate-controlled compartment.  It’s the original 15-stars, 15-stripes flag that was flown at Fort Niagara from 1796 to 1818.

Old Fort Niagara Flag
Original Ft. Niagara 15-stars, 15-stripes captured by the British in 1813.

Do you know where buffalo wings originated?  Well, we checked out the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, NY, home to what is claimed to be the originator of buffalo wings.  Caution: when in Buffalo, one should not call the wings “buffalo wings” or “hot wings” – just call them “chicken wings”.  Very strange.  Doesn’t make sense to us, but we don’t want to start a bar brawl with these New Yorkers.  They certainly were packed on a weekday afternoon.  Verdict: the wings were good – big, plump and juicy, fried crispy but not overcooked.  We have had better sauce on our wings, though.  So we would say they were good, but don’t bother flying across the U.S. just to try them.  At least we can say we had the originals!

Anchor Bar
At the home of the original buffalo wings

We crossed the border into Canada again, driving on the Lewiston Bridge to Ontario and exploring several  attractions.  We cruised along the 35-mile Niagara Parkway that runs beside the rampaging river.  Along the route are various attractions worth stopping for if you have time.

At the Sir Beck Hydro Power Plant in Ontario, we took a tour and learned about the new additional Niagara Tunnel that was completed in March 2013. This monster is 47.24′ high and 41.67′ in diameter – “big enough for 5 school busses to park side-by-side”.  The 6.3-mile underground tunnel diverts water from the Niagara River just above Horsehoe Falls, then quickly drops 328 ‘ and rushes downstream to the Sir Adam Beck Generating Station.  Finally, the water enters a pipe called a penstock and through the huge turbines to generate electricity.  This plant generates enough power to supply just about everything within 30 miles .  We were amazed to learn the plant is so efficient that the average maintenance needed by each turbine is just 3 hours per year.

Turbines at Sir Beck HyroPlant
Turbines at Sir Beck Hydro Plant.  They use bicycles to get around this massive place!

Per agreement between the U.S. and Canada, up to 75% of the water flowing toward the three falls at Niagara Falls is diverted into the huge tunnels running to hydroelectric plant “ponds” in New York and Canada.  This is enough water diversion that you can actually see a difference in the flow over the falls at night.  Both Ontario Hydro and the New York State Power Authorities pump this massive amount of water into their gigantic water reservoirs in order to top them up and supply the plants during the daytime hours.  During the day, water diversion is reduced to about 50% so that millions of tourists can enjoy the beauty of the falls. Pretty cool arrangement!

International Control Dam
The International Control Dam can be seen from Goat Island, NY or past Table Rock in Ontario.

The International Control Dam upstream has 18  gates that are raised or lowered in order control the water flow over the Falls for diversion into the Hydro Tunnels of Ontario Hydro and the New York State Power Authority.

Welland Canal is a ship canal which enables ships to ascend and descend the Niagara Escarpment, and to bypass Niagara Falls.  It operates just like the Panama Canal – on a much smaller scale (click here to read our post about the Panama Canal).  Welland Canal extends 26 miles from Port Weller Ontario, on Lake Ontario, to Port Colborne Ontario, on Lake Erie.  We were hoping to catch one of the passing ships as we arrived early in the morning and climbed the observation platform at Lock 3 near St Catherine’s.  However, we were informed that the next crossing was several hours away.  Fortunately, at Thorold Lock 7 the ship CSL Niagara was just beginning to navigate into the narrow canal.

Lock 3, Welland Canal
Lock 3, Welland Canal.  Pretty, but not a ship in sight.
The CSL Niagara squeezing into the lock
Thorold, Lock 7
About 20 minutes later, and 25′ higher – good to go!

A stop at Niagara-on-the-Lake was a must, as this little town was adorned with colorful foliage and teeming with tourists.  We contributed to their economy as Steve bought his Tilley hat at the Beau Chapeua Hat Store.  Then we stopped at an Irish Pub so we could sample the Irish Family of Beers and have a hearty lunch (Steve’s eyes rolled back in his head as he enjoyed the corned beef).  There were several fruit stands along the way, but we had to pass them since we were afraid the yummy fruits would be confiscated at the border – which has happened to us before.  We did taste and buy some excellent wine at the Peller winery though, and the border folks didn’t even ask about them.

On the Niagara Parkway, we also checked out the Botanical Gardens and the cool floral clock.

Botanical Garden
Pose at Hornbeam Alley at the Botanical Gardens
Niagara Botanical Garden
Steve wanted to smack this plant just to kill the flies!  Probably against the rules…
Floral Clock
40-foot wide floral time piece.

Continuing south on the Parkway, we ended up back at Niagara Falls where we saw hordes of tourists gawking at the falls.  The Canadian side of the falls are very popular, as you are able to see full frontal views of the huge Horseshoe Falls.

Table Rock
Tourists viewing at Horseshoe Falls at Table Rock on the Canadian side

One of our final stops was at the Skylon Tower, where we were able to view the falls at night from the top.

Skylon Tower
Skylon Tower

My last picture of the Horseshoe Falls at night, viewed from Skylon Tower, is not the best of my captures, as the multi-colored lights did not come out so good.  I still have a lot to learn about night time photography.

Horsehoe Falls at night
Illuminated Horseshoe Falls at night

Crossing the border back into the U.S. at the Rainbow Bridge involved a 40-minute wait.  Although we think we have seen a lot, we know there are many other things worth checking out here.  But alas, after a busy week it’s time to move on.

As I sit here ready to publish this blog, it is beautiful out (in the 70’s) but raining lightly. We were going to ride bikes today, but it looks like we might have to delay it until tomorrow and instead do some reading and enjoy a glass of wine.  Darn, life can be so difficult at times!




  1. What a great variety of things to see and do!

    We too are sitting in the rain right now in Grand Lake, CO…but it’s in the 50’s here!

    Metamorphosis Lisa

  2. I love your new header picture too. So glad you found so many things to do…it’s beautiful there! Hope you enjoyed your “lazy” day.

  3. Glad you had such a great time at the falls. Every time we go I am amazed at how I always feel just as “in awe” of them as I did the first time I was there. Visiting there never gets old. Kris

  4. We have been told it is better to park RV on Canada side. Could you tell if true or do you. Have thoughts one way or the other?

  5. Thanks for the shout out. Your post brought back so many memories. Now I want to jump on the road and go north. Oh well, another year.

  6. Wonderful you got to see so many sights in your week there. We did some of the same things a number of years ago. We also hiked along the Niagara River downstream from the falls. We loved Niagara on the Lake, the floral clock and the fort.

    Beautiful photos!

  7. What a great tour of the area. I had no idea there was so much to do beyond the falls. I particularly was interested in how water is diverted during different times of the day and night.

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