Lowes Travels

Sept 5-13

During and after our RV Full-timing years (2012-2020) we have often been asked which state was our favorite. The response was: Alaska, the untamed and wild state. We spent the summer of 2012 there during our first year of travels. We had an epic adventure filled with breathtaking landscapes, amazing wildlife and unforgettable experiences. During that trip Steve was driving on the Seward Highway next to a moving train, and he blurted out that he wanted to ride on that Alaska Railroad someday.

The picture below was taken in July 2012 as we drove our RV alongside the train, and it has forever etched itself in our minds. We’ve enjoyed several train trips, but this one has long been at the top of our to-do list. Fast forward to today, 14 years later we came back to experience Alaska again aboard the Alaska Railroad!

For this trip we went with Great Rail Journeys on their 8-day Deluxe Alaska Highlights Adventure. We picked the Independent type of travel, which meant we followed a planned itinerary that included train rides, boat trips, coach travel, 7 nights at hotels and several tours and excursions. We were impressed with how smoothly everything went – the railroad staff, tour operators and hotels were all in sync. No mix-ups with logistics, and transfers were a breeze. We recommend this company for any rail trips you wish to take worldwide.

Anchorage

To get re-acquainted with the city we took a two-hour trolley tour. As always we gained much knowledge about the city, its history and the natural beauty surrounding it:

After the trolley tour we went to the Alaska Federal Public Land Information Center, where we learned about the large areas of public lands in Alaska. It is a federal building with lots of security, and we weren’t sure we were at the right place. But we learned about the recreation and public lands of the 663,300 square miles of Alaska. It has various hands-on displays highlighting the state’s diverse regions, ecosystems, public lands and natural resources.

Next we visited the Anchorage Museum, the largest in Alaska. It was a massive multi-floor structure, and our heads and feet hurt when we left hours later. There were impressive exhibits and engaging displays showcasing the rich history, art and culture of the state and its natural environment:

As the next day of our adventure began, we hopped aboard the Glacier Discovery Train to Portage Valley:

The train followed the dramatic 50-mile long waterway called Turnagain Arm, which heads south to Portage Valley along scenic Seward Highway:

Portage Valley

It was raining when we arrived at Portage Valley, where the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center welcomed us into its sprawling 200 acres of beautiful habitats. This special non-profit sanctuary, dedicated to preserving Alaska’s unique wildlife, takes in orphaned and injured animals throughout the year. They are then released if they recover, or are provided with a “forever home” here if not.

As we explored in the rain we were fortunate to meet a few of the remarkable residents, while others were peacefully sleeping or nestled somewhere on the vast property. If your visit to Alaska is short, this center offers a great opportunity to see Alaskan wildlife all in one expansive place.

Back to the train for lunch, we moved on for more fun at Spencer Glacier, a remote wilderness area which is accessible only by train. No wonder I did not hear nor see this glacier when we camped at Portage Valley many years ago:

We spent over an hour on a guided paddled rafting tour, learning about the massive glacier cascading down the mountains and into the lake. The setting was ice-age rugged and primeval. Despite gray skies, the bottom half of the mile-high peaks were visible and there were waterfalls on the hillsides and floating icebergs. Beautiful!

We got back on the train and spent the night at Alyeska Resort, famous for its stunning Alaskan scenery and challenging ski slopes. We wished we could have stayed another night to enjoy the lift, but the train awaited us the next morning. The only downside of train travel on the Alaska Railroad – packing and unpacking every day 🙁

Back on our choo-choo, the next day’s destination was the town of Seward aboard the Coastal Classic:

The scenery on this segment was a stunning example of classic Alaska backcountry wilderness: glaciers, waterfalls, rivers and high mountains. It is widely regarded as the most scenic stretch of the entire Railbelt, and for good reason. While gray skies and showers dominated the trip, it was amazing with the added bonus appearance of a moose and a few swans. Here’s some of my captures:

The Coastal Town of Seward

Arriving at Seward, the hotel crew took care of our luggage and we went straight to the marina to board a catamaran for a 5.5 hour cruise through Kenai Fjords National Park. The weather was not perfect, but the activity is a rain or shine event so we just “rocked and rolled” on some serious waves during our cruise out:

Kenai Fjords National Park serves as a dramatic convergence of mountains, ice and ocean. It was designated as a national park in 1980 to preserve the massive Harding Icefield, the largest icefield contained entirely within U.S. borders that feeds about 40 outflowing tidewater glaciers and deep coastal fjords.

This is a place for wildlife viewing, but with the rain and fog we sighted only a few 🙁

The highlight on this excursion was getting up close to Aialik Glacier, an actively calving tidewater glacier, play the video and listen:

After this tour we arrived at the hotel with our luggage waiting for us. If you’re curious what it was like on a sunny day, click here for my blog post of the same tour we took in July 2012.

The next day was another one of fun in Seward. This time we hiked at Exit Glacier, which is part of the Kenai Fjords National Park. It’s located just 12 miles outside of town and is the easiest part of the park to visit:

We followed a moderate trail that led up to the glacier lookout. We were shocked by what we saw. The amount it has receded over the past 14 years was mind-boggling.

Play the short video below to see what I mean:

We learned that it has already shrunk by more than 2,300 feet since 2004. From 2011 to 2015, the average retreat jumped to roughly 145 feet per year, and park scientists recorded individual annual retreats of over 120 to 300 feet in severe years. Very sad!

We finished this day with a visit to the Iditarod champion sled dogs at Mitch Seavey’s homestead, home to three generations of Iditarod mushers. Mitch Seavey has run the famed Iditarod many times, winning the race in 2004 and 2013.

First we were treated to a whirlwind tour of the property, where more than 50 dogs were barking to get our attention. We learned about the Iditarod, its beginnings and how it was used extensively during the gold rush era to move mail and supplies from Seward to the gold fields of Nome:

Next the trainers harnessed the excited dogs and prepared us for an amazing ride. These dogs are used for sled tours during the summer to keep them active and healthy. By mid September they start their training for the big Iditarod race in March:

As soon as our musher gave the signal we felt the power, excitement, and energy of these amazing sled dogs as they led us on a 2-mile ride. We had 13 dogs pulling us with a total weight of almost 2,000 pounds including the cart. It was an incredible experience, something you must do if you come up here! Check out this video:

We were surprised how friendly these fiercely competitive dogs are. After the ride we toured the racing kennel to meet them, then to cuddle with adorable husky puppies while listening to stories from the trail:

Then it was time to hop back on the train to head back to Anchorage for the night. We had a great day in Seward, lots of excitement and memorable experiences.

Going out of Seward to Anchorage we retraced our track and the scenery remained awe inspiring. Nearly all of the remainder of our trip to Anchorage was within the borders of either the Chugach National Forest or the Chugach State Park. The National Forest is about the size of New Hampshire at six million acres, 30% of which is covered in ice. The Chugach State Park is a half-million acres, making it the third largest state park in the country.

Our days of train travel in Alaska were simply unforgettable, filled with amazing scenery, thrilling wildlife sightings, and fun adventures. From the flowery cityscape of Anchorage to the majestic beauty of Portage Valley and the charming town of Seward, every moment was an exhilarating experience that reminded us how we had missed Alaska and why a revisit was a must.

We’ve been to every state, and this one remains our favorite (during the summer, of course). On a cruise ship you barely scratch the surface of the beauty and wilderness here. You’d have to take either a train trip like this, or rent a car or RV for an extended trip. Alaska is almost two and a half times bigger than Texas, but more wild and untamed than anywhere else in the U.S., in our humble opinion 😉

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Next Up: Jaw-dropping Fall Colors of the Denali Wilderness!