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Before this trip, we had not heard about South Georgia Island and we didn’t have any expectations as we were focused on landing on our 7th continent, Antartica. But oh my, what a place! The best part was we gained an extra day here as we skipped one of the stop in Falkland Islands. Even then our original route here was changed a couple of times because of weather changes and Avian Flu now affecting wildlife in the island.
The first land of any sort that we saw while sailing from the Falkland Islands is a group of rocky islets emerging from the sea like shark’s teeth. According to the Captain what is visible is the mountain peak 246 ft, and stand in water approximately 1,047 ft deep.
Shag Rocks
Whales and birds are known to hang out here, and they did show themselves to us.
Approaching our first stop in South Georgia Island we were greeted with glaciers and breathtaking mountain backdrops. We were anxious to get out on the water and experience the stunning environment that greeted us. But Mother Nature had other plans most of the time.
Rosita Bay
Rosita Bay was a Plan C stop so a scouting party, head ashore and check out the beach for any chance of a landing and found out it was not safe to do so. There were no landings here, instead, expedition activities will just be zodiac cruising, SOB (Special Operation Boat) ride and our scheduled kayak.
This was our first time putting on our polar gear, which took about 15-20 minutes. We wore four layers on top and three layers on the bottom, along with a safety vest, phone, camera, and binoculars, adding two extra pounds. It was a challenge to get ready for our outing, so we only dressed up just 15 minutes before our scheduled time to go or we would heat up!
We could hear the young fur seal pups howling and growling at one another all around, making for an eerie sound reverberating. There were also lots new to us birds and our naturalist/guide helped us identify them.
Unfortunately, right after our zodiac cruise, the wind picked up and the swells increased, so all activities were cancelled, including our kayak outing, bummer.
Salisbury Plain
Just a few miles from Rosita Harbor, the captain announced that we would be anchored at a distance in front of Salisbury Plain to view some King Penguins. And oh my! This large open expanse of glacial outwash plains happens to be a favorite hang out of King Penguins. Unfortunately, due to Avian flu there were no zodiac landings so we just watched them from the bow of the ship. We wished the Captain could have placed the ship closer. However, we saw them—hundreds of thousands of King Penguins and seals. What an incredible sight!
And here’s a short video (sorry it’s a bit shaky)…
Then in the evening, as we continued the course, a spectacular sunset graced the landscape on the longest day of the year. Because it’s summer down there , it is always light all night long.
Grytviken
We almost did not land at Grytviken our next port when we arrived that morning. The once largest whaling station was surrounded with ice blocking our landing area.
Several hours later Mother Nature gave us a break, allowing us to make our first landing after the wind cleared the ice, so all activities were paused for a zodiac landing. Yay!
Before boarding the zodiacs, the mandatory biosecurity inspection was completed. Our boots were checked closely for any organic materials that we could accidentally bring on shore. This was done each time we landed on the island.
When we landed there, scattered rusting machinery, can be seen. It is a stark reminder of its horrific and tragic history of the whaling industry in South Georgia. Grytviken was founded in 1904, initially as a Norwegian whaling station. It closed in 1965 when virtually all the whales were gone. During that time, the station processed thousands of slaughtered whales until the surrounding waters were overfished, forcing it to shut down.
One reason we were excited to be here is that Steve finished reading the book “Endurance” before our trip. It tells the story of Sir Ernest Shackleton, who in 1914 tried to cross Antarctica but got stuck in ice. He started the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition to cross the continent, but pack ice trapped his ship and crew in the Weddell Sea for 18 months. Shackleton led a rescue mission from Elephant Island to South Georgia. And against all odds, saved every member of his crew.
He was remembered for his expeditions to the Antarctic and the dangerous yet successful rescue mission that saved the lives of every member of his crew. It is for this accomplishment that Shackleton’s memory is most celebrated.
Fur seals and King penguins made this place their home and they are all over the place. As expected we were asked to keep our distance but as you know the animals did not get that memo.
Back on the ship, our boots undergo a high-powered spa treatment with power-washing and disinfecting. Conservation and environmental stewardship in the Antarctic environment is really a serious undertaking. Besides, we don’t want any penguin or fur seal poop in our clean and cozy cabin after each landing.
At this point in our sailing we passed by several floating icebergs of various sizes and shapes.
The breathtaking sub-Antarctic landscape, impressive wildlife extravaganza, and a bit of history were a delightful surprise. We were definitely in awe and exhilarated by what we had just experienced. But there were more thrilling experiences at our final stop in South Georgia. More on that in our next post.
Next UP:
Continuing our mind blowing stops at South Georgia Island
Comments
13 responses to “Mind-blowing wildlife and stunning landscape – South Georgia Island”
Wow! The number of penguins on that beach boggles my mind! I’m loving all of your images of the spectacular wildlife.
Thank you Beth, perhaps you might consider this Expedition Cruise, its worth it!
You’re right about the mind blowing wildlife. There just aren’t enough words for what you’ve experienced. I’m so glad we were able to get a small peak into what you viewed with your videos and beautiful photos. The getting dressed and undressed looked exhausting though but so worth it.
Those penguins on the beach were other-worldly. There were SO MANY of them! They are just such fun creatures – so much personality! Love the glacier photos too… Beautiful stuff!
I want a baby fur seal! And a King Penguin for a butler, hahaha!!! I love seeing all of this wildlife through your photos and videos. Thanks for putting on all that gear and getting out there for us. I had the same thought as Lisa…I would probably have to pee as soon as I squeezed myself into all of that gear. 😀
I have to pee like three times right after I donned the gears, such a hassle ! but so worth it too!
This is incredible! The sunset is stunning, the penguins are adorable, and the sheer amount of wildlife is amazing. It’s so sad that avian flu has made its way to the island despite all the measures that are put in place for a visit.
What a wonderful experience!
When we went to South Georgia the first time, we had no expectations either and were blown away by it. It almost overshadowed the Antarctic Peninsula, which was next on that itinerary. I am looking forward to returning this year … though I know things will be different because of the Avian flu.
Love your photos! Brings back memories of our trip in 2023 – amazing! Glad you’re still at a it and having fun!!
The cute baby seals are, of course, my favorites. I’m glad you guys took it for the team and went into the freezing climate in all that gear so that we could enjoy the wonderful pictures from the warm comfort of our dens. 🙂
What a fascinating cruise this has been! I bet you have to be really careful about drinking too much liquids before donning all that gear and heading out on your excursions!
Oh yes, but still i have to pee even after wearing those gears. I put on the safety gear last just as we leave the room.