Removing RV paint/rock guard protective film

Comments 22 Standard

My guest writer (Steve) is geared up to write a Betsy maintenance story, so I told the birthday boy to fire away.  My birdwatching tale will just have to wait a few more days…here’s a project Steve recently completed:

If your RV didn’t come with a clear protective film on the front, or if the protective film on your RV is still in good shape, this article is not for you.  But if after a few years and a few miles of travel you are noticing pitting and discoloration that’s making you consider removing that film, you may want to read on and see how I “got ‘er done” – after lots of research and multiple attempts with several different products.

Removing scotch guard film from an RV

I got a good arm and shoulder workout on this day!

This protective film has been called “Scotchguard Protectant Film”, “3M Rock Guard” and “Diamond Shield”.  I don’t know if these are different names for the same product, or even which one was applied to our 2008 Winnebago (no indication on the invoice).  I hope some of the details below will help folks, no matter which protective film they are dealing with.

3M Rock Guard

Lucky for me, I was able to pull all of the large sections off in one piece

I’ve read about and seen this protectant film in various stages of deterioration, and I’ve heard horror stories about how it just chipped off in little pieces when folks tried to remove it.  The film on our coach wasn’t too bad after 6 years of use, and with some muscle power I was able to get it off in large pieces.  Another procedure would probably be needed if yours has completely disintegrated.  Best of luck to you if that’s the case!

3M Rock Guard removed

That’s all of it – now on to the real work!

As some of you may know, getting the adhesive removed after pulling the film off is the real project.  I tried paint thinner and then acetone to dissolve the nasty stuff, neither of which worked (and believe me it scared the heck out of me to rub acetone onto my nice paint job!).

The product that did it for me was Xylene, which evaporates more slowly than the others and seemed to soften the adhesive quickly.  I was able to get a quart of Xylene at my local Ace hardware store.

Removing adhesive on motorhome

This is the nastiest high-tech adhesive I’ve ever dealt with



I found that doing this work in the shade worked best.  I thought the adhesive might get soft and come off easier in the sun or heat, but the Xylene evaporated too quickly to do its job in those conditions.

Using a cotton rag saturated with Xylene, I generously spread it on a small section of the adhesive, then after a few seconds I could scrape it off fairly easily with a PLASTIC “razor” blade without damaging the paint.  Although I used to paint cars many years ago, I had never heard of these plastic blades and soon discovered they were essential for this project and can also be purchased at Ace.

Plastic Mini Scraper

I couldn’t have done it without these…


Liberally apply some Xylene to a small area, and wait a few seconds…


…then just scrape it off with this plastic blade.  You’ll get used to how long to leave it on and how to scrape it soon enough, based on the weather and how much adhesive is present

After scraping off the adhesive, there were small trace amounts of it left behind that could be wiped off with a little more Xylene.  After completing each section, I flooded the area with water to dilute any chemical remnants that might possibly damage the paint.

Plan on spending several hours to completely remove the adhesive.  It probably took me 4-6 hours once I had figured out the right combination of chemicals and tools.  After that, I broke out my trusty orbital buffer and applied a nice coat of wax to make the front of the coach shine like new.

Meguiars Wax

I love Meguiar’s products, and either the liquid or paste wax can be used with my buffer


OK, now that’s the reflection I’ve been looking for!

I learned that professionals will charge $300-$600 to do this for you, so I felt pretty good about doing it myself, even though it took a few tries to get it right.

Tools/products needed:

  • Muscle to remove film
  • Xylene
  • Plastic scraper blades
  • Rags and fresh water nearby
  • Buffer
  • Good liquid or paste wax
  • Patience!

Good luck, and let me know if you have any helpful suggestions to make this project easier for other folks!



Winter Maintenance for Betsy – Riviera, TX

Comments 28 Standard
Eternabond tape

[Steve wrote this post, Mona Liza gets the day off!]

Like many full-time RV’ers running around the country,  we tend to slow down and “stay put” in a particular area during the coldest winter months.  We have found it’s the best time for us to complete the many little maintenance items we’ve added to our list during the more intense travel months.


You want me to treat you good, you better treat me good!

This is our third winter on the road, and as you know Texas is this year’s state of choice after spending the winters of 2012 in Arizona and 2013 in Florida.  Our current list of “to-do” items is many, but the number of decent weather days to do them has been few!  I had planned to complete everything by mid-January, but it was not to be due to several weeks of cold, windy and wet weather.  Thanks to better days here at Riviera, TX I’m just about back on schedule.

Note:  If you don’t own a coach or full-time you may want to skip this post!

So, here’s how I’ve been spending my time while Mona Liza terrorizes the local bird population:

Installed new batteries –

My highest priority regarding mechanical maintenance was to replace all of our batteries – coach and chassis – after 6 years of constant use.  We purchased the new ones as soon as we arrived at Port Aransas, since there was a major Interstate battery warehouse just down the road in Corpus Cristi, and those were the batteries I wanted.  You should have seen our poor car sagging in the rear as I hauled over 350 pounds of batteries home!

Except for the physical workout of hauling 5 new batteries home and 5 used batteries back to the warehouse, this wasn’t a tough project.  I photographed and took notes of the cable connections, then disconnected the main cables from each “group” of batteries to the coach and chassis.  After that it was just a matter of removing the cables that made up the parallel connections between the batteries and then removing them.

I scraped and then cleaned the trays with a water/baking soda mixture, then applied a rust inhibitor where needed before painting everything a nice satin black.  While that dried I cleaned the cables and hold-down brackets.  Finally, I put those shiny new ones in and hooked everything back up.

Some tips (certainly not exhaustive):

  • Don’t even think about doing this job without wearing safety goggles!
  • Wear the junkiest clothes you own, then throw them away when you’re done.  The battery acid will eat them, and I wouldn’t want to put them into anyone’s washing machine.
  • Always disconnect negative cables first, and reconnect them last, to avoid accidental arcing with your tools.
  • Use a good-quality steel brush to clean all cable connections.
  • Vaseline on the connections works well to reduce future corrosive buildup.

Re-carpeted our entry steps –

A no-brainer, and an easy project on a nice day.  Some contact cement and a brush to apply it with, and some good quality outdoor carpet of your choice.  After measuring carefully, I folded ours over the front of the steps and held it down with some metal doorway trim.

Insulated our indoor cabinets –

Well, here’s one we could do on a cold, miserable day!  Also a great time to go through all of our “stuff” and clean the cabinets.  I added about 1/4″ to my measurement in each direction to create an “interference fit”, and then stuck a couple of small double-sided tape squares to the back just for extra hold.  We haven’t had a warm enough day to test the benefits yet, but I think it actually looks pretty cool!  We got this idea from John and Pam when we checked out their installation.

Lubed the chassis –

Probably my most dreaded maintenance project – cramped, greasy, filthy job.  I was happy to have an image of all the grease points in the binder I got from my Camp Freightliner class.  There are several that aren’t at all obvious, including at the rear of the chassis.  And make sure to get the ones on the drive shaft u-joints.  One thing that helped me this time was having the front end of the coach jacked up quite a bit because the site wasn’t level.  It gave me much more room to crawl around.

 Installed Eternabond tape on the roof –

I finally got a nice enough day to check the drip rails along the sides of the roof, and attention was definitely needed.  Rather than trying to remove all of the old sealer and replace it with new (which I’ve heard several times can result in new leaks), I bought 2″ Eternabond tape and sealed from the roof to over the lip of the drip rail.  I used sandpaper to roughen up the drip rail, then blew away any dirt before cleaning the area with lacquer thinner.

The edge of our roof is black, so I got the black tape to make it less noticeable (it comes in white and in various widths).  This stuff isn’t cheap, but it’s supposed to be pretty fantastic and I’ll be watching it closely over the next few months to see how it holds up.

Installed a Maxxair roof vent/fan –

Although we already had a Maxxair fan installed over our bathroom, it failed and we found another model that we like better.  The old one was the 7000-series unit with the big, long hood over it.  The big advantage of it was that the vent could be opened in the rain and while driving, neither of which we do.  And believe me when I tell you that the old one was almost impossible to clean due to its complexity.


Removing the old vent – you can see my bare foot  – my next project is to apply the roof protectant and I didn’t want to drag dirt and grass onto my clean roof!

The new vent/fan is the Maxxair 4500K, which is pretty much a direct replacement for the standard roof vent opening.  It also has a great remote for VCI’s (vertically-challenged individuals – one lives here), with multiple controls and thermostatic operation.

As you may know, the toughest part of this job is to get the old fan and caulk removed without tearing up the roof.  After that, the project was very straight-forward, and the instructions that came with the unit were easy to follow.  It works great, and we like the “smoked” cover because it lets some light into the bathroom during the day.

Removed Diamond Shield protectant –

Our coach came new with a product called Diamond Shield installed on the front cap, which protects the paint from rock chips and other debris.  The trouble is, after several years it was beginning to deteriorate and look bad.  After lots of research I decided to remove it.  I was lucky to get the plastic material off in large sections without it falling apart, but removing the adhesive remaining on the paint turned into a long and tough project.

I have finally gotten all of the adhesive off without damaging the paint.  I plan to write a post dedicated to this project, since it has been a topic of much debate on some of the RV forums.