After gallivanting in and around scenic Cody, Wyoming for a week, we packed up and continued north into our 48th state, big sky country – Montana!
We chose our first stop at Red Lodge Montana, largely due to Hans and Lisa’s great review of the town and Perry’s Campground (Steve’s review here). We’re having a good time here, and I’ll give the details in my next post. But for now let’s take a drive on the famed Beartooth Highway, a National Scenic Byway and All-American Road – which several of you have told us is a must-do. And you were right!
I was curious what makes a highway a National Scenic Byway and All-American Road. We have driven many byways (17 out of 32) during our travels, but I didn’t pay much attention to the designation until now.
According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, to be designated as a National Scenic Byway a road must possess at least one of six intrinsic qualities and be regionally significant: archeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, and scenic. To receive an All-American Road designation, a road must possess multiple intrinsic qualities that are nationally significant and have one-of-a-kind features that do not exist elsewhere. The road or highway must also be considered a “destination unto itself.” That is, the road must provide an exceptional traveling experience so recognized by travelers that they would make a drive along the highway a primary reason for their trip.
Let’s see if the Beartooth Highway lives up to its designation. And because it’s a scenic drive, this post is loaded with pictures. Are you ready? Then let’s go!
This section of U.S. Highway 212 runs between Red Lodge and Cooke City, Montana, with a large portion running through the northwest corner of Wyoming. It’s the highest elevation highway in Wyoming (10,947 feet) and Montana (10,350 feet), and the highest elevation highway in the Northern Rockies. So high it’s only open mid-May through mid-October. We began our drive from our campground located right on Hwy 212 just 3 miles south of Red Lodge.
Passing through lush forest, we continued our steady ascent into the arctic-alpine section of the drive on the Beartooth Plateau. At about 10,000′ the road climbed above the treeline and crossed the alpine tundra on the plateau.
At this point Steve was no longer a happy driver as I constantly asked him to stop so I could photograph the gorgeous, beautiful wildflowers – and they were just about everywhere!
The fragile tundra was full of blooms with a plethora of blue, pink, white and yellow wildflowers as far as the eye could see. To appreciate these tiny flowers I had to drop almost to my belly to get good pictures.
We continued on until we reached the highest point at West Summit, elevation 10,974′.
From here we had not only superb views of the highest peaks of the mountains, but also an excellent look at the distant North Absaroka Mountains in Wyoming.
Construction of the 68-mile route began in 1931 and was completed in 1936. Built at the cost of $2.5M, it ranks as one of the country’s major engineering feats.
We negotiated another series of switchbacks as we descended to the Wyoming section of the highway.
Fortunately the Clay Butte Fire Lookout Tower was open when we arrived. It sits in windy isolation on a butte at 9811′, in the Wyoming section of the mountains. A 3-mile drive up a gravel road ended at the structure, which was completed by the men of the CCC in 1942.
The friendly volunteer demonstrated how firefighters once used the tower’s original Osborne Fire Finder to pinpoint a fire’s location after spotting it. Although the instrument is no longer used, this tower is still in operation during fire season.
He also told us the history of Clay Butte Tower and how it has played a major role in fire detection and suppression in this area over the past 70+ years.
While Steve continued to listen I walked around and found a few new friends:
I admired a lavish array of wildflowers on the grounds and hillsides. Beautiful!
Beartooth Butte was at the bottom of an inland sea millions of years ago, as evidenced by bands of sandstone on the formation. Crystal-clear Beartooth Lake at the foot of the Butte is the largest in the area.
Continuing south, we stopped at Lake Creek Falls where waters from the big snowmelt were rushing down the mountain:
Pilot and Index peaks seen at a different angle from the highway. These peaks are very distinguishable from both Chief Joseph Scenic Byway and the Beartooth Highway.
The 45th parallel is the latitude line that connects this spot along the highway with the prairies of South Dakota, the north woods of Maine, the wine country of France, the deserts of Mongolia and finally right back to this spot.
We grabbed a quick snack in Cooke City as the clouds began to gather overhead. On our way back I caught a glimpse of a Moose by the road, and even though it was beginning to rain I had to capture her pose. She didn’t look too happy about it!
It was a fantastic drive, and I think the high-alpine plateau was my favorite part – even though the wind was howling up there. The spectacular views were among the best we’ve seen on our many driving adventures, and as usual my pictures cannot capture the immensity of it all. We urge everyone to make this a destination drive, as it definitely lives up to its designation as an All-American Road!
Lowes Travels 
Yay! Welcome to my state 😊😊😊
And so far we are loving your state!
WoW! Beautiful byway, moutains, flowers and animals! I’m added it to my list of must see places. Have a great time in Montana.
It is a spectacular drive. The wildflowers are beautiful! We’ve never seen them since our drives were early June right after the road opened with still feet of snow along the road and frozen lakes. A totally different and magnificent sight. Did you catch the ski lift? It is a rope tow and one year they were still skiing in June. Very cool! You feel like you are on top of the world up there. Glad you enjoyed the drive:) How neat to see a moose and get such a nice photo:)
We did enjoy the drive but did not realized the winds up there was really howling. And July is the best time to drive with all the flowers on the hillsides and meadows, just breathtaking.
We so wanted to do this when we came through Montana a couple months ago, but it was still closed for the season. We hope to make it back through that way just so we can drive on the byway. Thanks for sharing. Don
The drive is worth a coming back. We even think of coming back at a different season to see a different perspective.
Wow! What a spectacular drive….your pictures are fantastic and I’ll certainly put this highway on my list. The whole area looks so interesting. Thanks!
I think we hit it at the best time of the year, July for the hillsides and the meadows were really blooming…just breathtaking.
Fabulous! This is my kind of country. Reminds me of the drive through Rocky Mtn National Park. That’s a marmot, not a Pika. Loved all your photos – wonderful captures 🙂
I think you would be enjoying the drive here during this month. Yup the drive did remind me of the Trailroad at Rocky Mountain Park.
Looks like a young marmot!
The flowers! Just gorgeous…we did not have many flowers on our drives on the Beartooth.
It is truly a stunning area, one that I’d gladly return to over and over again!
Although you did not have flowers, you saw the Mountain Goats!
You did a wonderful job capturing one of my favorite drives. I felt for Steve pulling over for you to take photos (my John can do that just so many times… ). We have been to the Beartooths in August, and September. I will have to check it out in July sometime. The wildflowers looked to be gorgeous and oh, so plentiful! And, the peaks were still white with snow. I love your post and I am sure I will return to read it again. Happy Travels!!
Yeah, I think July is when the wildflowers are at its peak. If I was driving alone I could have stayed a bit longer, but then the wind was howling too.
Great photo of the moose…
I too love the alpine wildflowers.
Beautiful pictures MonaLiza!
Thanks Gay!
Spectacular scenery and beautiful wildflowers! Loved all your photos!
Thank you Beth!
Wow, just WOW!!! Fabulous pictures…in fact so great, looks like we’ll never go…Bill hates long and winding roads and mountain tops! We’d need a driver and then he said he’ll still have to lay down in the back seat under a tarp! We’re pushing it here in the eastern mountains of Kentucky!
You are so funny. Does he have a fear of heights?
Yes! Poor guy. He’s managed to go out on one or two out crops, but it was hard.
Did it in May of 2011 on our motorcycles at ages 65(Red Fox) and 67 (Hawk). 20 foot high snowbanks as we rolled along. Check out our book and video at http://www.nstarsolutions.com/store/home.php?provider=harleyhawk
I can just imagine your excitement as you wind up and down the road. The road also calls for motorcycle drives.
Oh my goodness Mona Liza what a fantastic drive. Your photographs are amazing. The view and the flowers. This is a drive I have wanted to take and just can’t seem to get back out there to do it. I really loved doing it with you and am determined to see it for myself. Your pictures make it look fantastic.
This is one drive you and David would definitely like and there are hikes too. At this time the wildflowers are at its peak.
There’s so much beauty here, I had to go through the photos twice! The wildflowers are gorgeous (glad you convinced Steve to stop for photos) and your capture of the Mountain Bluebird is wonderful. The entire drive looks amazing. I don’t think I could ever relax in that fire tower knowing that the furniture has to wear insulators. What happens if you’re just standing on the floor and lightning strikes??
Then you get hit 🙂 I think we drove this at the time when wildflowers were just at their peak.
Your photos are just stunning MonaLiza! This post brought back such wonderful memories for me of our time in Yellowstone. Hiking in the Beartooths was some of my best times while living in the park. You should travel that highway when it has just opened for the season and there are 12 foot snowdrifts on each side of the road…surreal! Wonderful post!
And that would be a little chilly. Good for you, you are able to drive the highway in different seasons.
I’m thinking the designations are well earned. Love the scenery, but the one you captioned “Looking down Rock Creek Canyon from a 9,190′ scenic overlook” is my favorite of the bunch.